I surfed the California beaches for many
years, both as a teenager, and later in my adult life. I've found few experiences to rival
those early morning plunges into the cold Pacific Ocean. Feeling naked, sensing every pore in my
body suddenly explode, the frigid water and brisk dawn air conspiring to awaken
my soul. The expectation of the
adventure, paddling out through the waves as they crashed over me in a vain
attempt to hinder my progress, to turn me back, to deprive me of the pleasure
of that first ride. Challenges
(obstacles) barely noticed for the focus of the reward. Meeting the challenge becoming even
it's own reward. There are no
words to describe the ride. The
more I could abandon myself to the rhythm of the wave, it's subtle changes in
personality, it's requirement for immediate response, the deeper I became
immersed in it's primitive, but natural intent. The more integrated I would become with the water, the clearer
would become my understanding of it’s inherent freedom. Over time I learned to heed the casual
beckoning of the waves in their attempt to guide me gracefully, and safely,
through the ride. Sometimes the
wave would hurt me. But more often
than not we'd end up shaking hands.
The optimistic energy in my life has been this same experience. The cold air, and water, being the
awakening from dormancy; the paddling out being the process of getting my
consciousness, and will, directed through the obstacles, taking up the
challenge; the ride being the freedom, and joy, inherent in the extraordinary
expression of it's boundlessness.
The simple act of abandoning myself to the mystery of the unknown, the
unforeseen, stripping naked before myself, and for myself, jumping gracefully
from the bridge of possibility.
To live in this place, to truly live in this place,
is my hope,
and my desire.
To live in this place, to truly live in this place,
is my hope,
and my desire.